The name means ‘eight five’ referring to the tsubo size (about 28m²) with seating for just six. Yasufumi Matsumura’s background is in French cuisine, so as if preparing consommé, he decided not to use tare sauce. He blends Japanese and Western elements like kombu, dried shiitake, dried tomatoes and uncured ham, with free-range chicken and duck as the base. Is the golden broth seasoned with soy sauce or salt? These borderless new flavours are born of a revolutionary approach