This second-generation owner-chef learned the art of handling fugu in Yamaguchi Prefecture. He exercises his talents on wild-caught tora fugu from the Bungo Channel. The fish are fermented for several days, then butterflied and arranged in a floral pattern called botan-zukuri for a unique texture and flavour experience. The hand-pressed ponzu, stocked by the whole family, is a consummate match. Rock-grilled fugu, served to offer hot cuisine in the colder months, is a favourite.