Daichi Kumagiri’s ideas make waves and the Kagurazaka Ishikawa restaurant, which operates Hato, rides on the current of sushi. Shuko, interweaving grilled with deep-fried items, is served kaiseki-style. Sushi merges with other disciplines of Japanese cuisine here, erasing the boundaries between them. The type of vinegared rice used varies by dish, and sushi toppings are deftly sliced. Following the principles of Japanese fare, this unique sushi brings out the honest flavour of the ingredients.

Michio Kojima describes himself as a sushi artisan with a 20th century Showa-era mentality. As such, he prepares sushi with fish floss sandwiched between rice and either a gizzard shad or tiger prawn topping and makes tamago-yaki with Shiba shrimp broth. By visiting Toyosu market every morning, he has built a relationship with wholesalers. Testament to this is his selection of first catch produce, such as very young gizzard shad, which are at the apex of the sushi fish hierarchy.

Daisaku Murayama spent much of his apprenticeship studying Japanese cuisine rather than sushi specifically, and his experience with kaiseki shines in his side dishes. After fried foods and dishes served in bowls, the meal ends with a vinegared dish. The nigiri toppings are prepared Edomae style, and generally served in the order squid, zuke-maguro, chu-toro and o-toro. Expect classics such as gizzard shad and tiger prawn with minced Shiba shrimp and modern treats like eggs with maple syrup.

Each morning Tatsuya Kuwano goes hunting for sushi toppings in the Toyosu fish market. Every night Sushi Kuwano has the feel of a dinner party. He serves his snacks according to his own peculiar rhythm; when the customers have settled, the nigiri starts to appear. In spring, it begins with a shuko of noresore, or young conger eel and ends with nigiri of anago, conger eel, telling of the interconnectedness of life. Fish is even used in the tamago-yaki, with minced hamo in summer and cod in winter.

“Everything begins with tuna and ends with tuna.” Hideki Nakajima learned this old-school Tokyo way of doing things from a sushi shop that was heir to skills dating from the Edo period. The nigiri starts with toro, is followed by seafood from Tokyo Bay, with tekkamaki (tuna roll) at the end. The fan-shaped nigiri is a technique seared into his memory from watching his mentor’s handiwork. Vinegared toppings and nitsume accommodate modern tastes while advancing the evolution of this tradition.

Hiroyuki Hashimoto, whose father was also a sushi chef, trained at sushi restaurants in Tokyo. The omakase starts with snacks, showing just how well he was trained. Standard items in the elaborate shuko include chawanmushi and vinegared rice with seafood. The sushi is prepared according to authentic Edomae technique, the rice seasoned with akazu and the toppings larger in size. Starting out with gizzard shad is also a mark of his training.

Ryujiro Nakamura is sincere in his approach to his work. His spirited shouts and the gentle attitude with which he responds to customer requests make for a feel-good atmosphere. He puts the most effort into the bluefin tuna, which he says is the centrepiece of sushi. Another appealing characteristic is how the flavours change with the season. The use of warm rice brings out the flavours. His training shows through in his hospitality.

Hanging on an old house on a Ningyocho alley is the unobtrusive shop curtain for Takagakino Sushi. This is what Edomae sushi places often used to look like. Customers sit shoulder to shoulder at the cramped, six-seat counter. Each sushi piece is composed of vinegared rice, enlivened by a little salt, with a properly aged topping. Permeated with the Edomae style and practice of sushi, Takagakino Sushi is popular with connoisseurs.

Owner-chef Keita Aoyama treasures the Edomae cuisine skills he acquired through apprenticeships in Hokkaido and Tokyo. Fish floss is sandwiched between rice and either gizzard shad or prawn. Nitsume-coated anago is rich and flavoursome. Mindful of the simple joy of filling one’s cheeks, the nigiri are generously portioned. Sushi toppings are cut thick and paired with akazu-seasoned rice. Tamago-yaki with Shiba shrimp wraps up the meal. Polished skills are evident in every dish.